What Is Olaplex? A Definitive Guide to Every Product

Publish date: 2024-05-02

When it comes to hair care, beauty lovers everywhere are familiar with Olaplex. Since launching in 2014, the brand has rapidly won over a loyal fanbase with its special bonding technology and multi-step strengthening system.

All the hype leaves many inevitably asking: Does Olaplex actually work? What makes this system different from others on the market? And most importantly, what about those claims of negative side effects?

To answer all those burning questions, we've turned to the experts. They break down how all the products work, their benefits, the downsides, and how to incorporate them into your routine. Read on below for everything you need to know about Olaplex's multi-step strengthening system.

What Does Olaplex Do? 

According to Lavinia Popescu, chief scientist for research and development at Olaplex, the multi-step strengthening system is formulated to re-link damaged bonds in the hair and restore it to its healthiest state. All their products contain a patented bond-building technology that works on a molecular level to treat damaged hair and fortify it for the future. “Olaplex works holistically on all hair types, strengthening the entire hair strand, including the length and width of the hair, for immediate and lasting results you can see and feel,” says Popescu.

Benefits of Olaplex

Popescu says that all hair types can benefit from an Olaplex treatment, but it is especially beneficial for those looking to repair damage from chemicals, heat, and environmental aggressors. Cosmetic chemist Michelle Wong, PhD seconds this claim.

"Olaplex treatments are great for bond building and increasing the strength of your hair, especially if it's damaged by chemical treatments or even just day-to-day wear," says Dr. Wong. She adds that it can even be helpful without chemical or heat damage. "For example, curly hair tends to be quite susceptible to damage, so bond-building products can help restore some of its properties."

Olaplex's bond-building technology includes an active ingredient called bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, which works to find single sulfur-hydrogen bonds and cross-link them back together to form healthy disulfide bonds. Once these bonds are fixed, the treatment strengthens your hair from the inside out. 

Two of the treatment products —Olaplex No. 0 and No. 3 — have the highest levels of bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate. These are the two that will give you the biggest bond-building benefits.

Is Olaplex Safe?

There have been some controversies as of late concerning the safety of these products. In February 2023, a lawsuit was filed against Olaplex, accusing its products of causing damage to the hair and scalp, including issues of dryness, breakage, and even hair loss in some cases. Olaplex's then-CEO, JuE Wong—who departed the company in October 2023—took to Instagram and Twitter to refute these claims. "​​We have full confidence and believe in the safety and efficacy of our products," the company said in an Instagram post addressing the lawsuit.

Dr. Wong suggests that those who have experienced damage may have unintentionally misused the No. 3 treatment as a leave-in treatment instead of a pre-shampoo treatment. "A large part of it might be under-conditioning," says Dr. Wong. "The original Olaplex treatment (No. 3) isn't designed to be a conditioner, so a conditioner should be used as well to smooth out the surface of the hair and reduce the 'dry' feeling of rough, unconditioned hair."

Moreover, on July 11, 2023, a court granted Olaplex’s motion to sever and dismiss all the claims of the lawsuit, with the exception of the first-named plaintiff, who voluntarily dismissed their claims later that month. If you're loyal to these products and haven't experienced any negative side effects, you're likely safe to continue doing so.

Another important point of contention to address is the controversy around lilial, an ingredient formerly in Olaplex No. 3 . It's banned in the United Kingdom and European Union based on a 2021 report that examined its reproductive toxicity. While the study found that certain animals had sensitivity to lilial when ingested, there has yet to be concrete evidence that it's harmful to humans. Nevertheless, it's banned in these places and has been removed from Olaplex No. 3. out of an abundance of caution.

The Olaplex Products 

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Olaplex's at-home products can be used together or separately depending on your hair needs, says Popescu. They can be divided into three categories: treatment, protection, and maintenance. The experts break down how each product works as follows: 

Treat

Protect

Maintain

How to Use Olaplex Products 

Cunningham says that you do not need to use every product daily. You can pick and choose what is needed based on your hair concern and what best fits with your normal hair care routine. Popescu agrees: “Anyone can use Olaplex and customize the at-home products to suit their individual hair needs,” she says. “You can pick the products that you need most for your hair concern.” 

Olaplex Salon Treatment

There is a salon treatment from Olaplex that uses the patented bond-building technology to treat damaged hair. Popescu says it’s designed for trained and licensed hairstylists and can act as the perfect add-on to any chemical or styling service.  

There are two steps to in-salon treatment. The first one uses the Olaplex No. 1 Bond Multiplier, which she says is used to repair damage and prevent future breakage by reinforcing the structure of your hair strands. It’s an additive during chemical services to mitigate any broken bonds. The second step is the Olaplex No. 2 Bond Perfector, which works to treat deeper damaged bonds. How often you come in for treatment will depend on your hair and its needs, but she says that you can maintain hair health between salon visits with at-home products. 

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